Toronto, Ontario









Toronto, Ontario
Mr. Ed’s PoBoy Shop: Fun neighbourhood feel in the most casual branch of a well-known restaurant group known for its oysters. We declined to sit by the window with the wintry wind at the door, and bar stools are too spirited for us. Located on a quieter street in the French Quarter, tourists may not have found this place opened 3 months ago. (Mr. Ed’s PoBoy Shop, Iberville Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250110
Bourbon Street: Strolling through clubbing district on Friday 7:30pm, only a few bars are close enough to have loud music duelling loudly to attract customers. Foot traffic seemed light, maybe a combination of chilly temperatures, and the early hour. We started walking from Canal Street to the west, where memorials to the vehicle attack on crowds are still fresh, through to a dark Jackson Square. (Bourbon Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250110
Mahogany Jazz Hall: From the street outside the renowned jazz club, we caught a few minutes of the Delfeayo Marsalis Quintet near the end of the early evening set. In the first few hours after arriving in the city, we had opted to wander around Bourbon Street to get a feel or the district. The apartment building where we are staying is literally wrapped around this music venue. (Mahogany Jazz Hall, Chartres Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250110
Jackson Square: Cold shade on St. Peter St., but warming sun down Chartres Street, as Glory Land Brass Band winds down a set facing The Cabildo. Music was reflected all the way over to Decatur Street towards the Waterfront. This style of jazz seems better heard outdoors, from a tradition before electronic amplification was invented. (Jackson Square, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250111
Blue Nile: Doors to the club were open to the cold, with driving groove inviting visitors to listen to the George Brown Band. The trombonist was leading the bassist, pianist and drummer, with the trumpeter stepping in on this tune. All of the seats in the venue were already taken, my legs were too tired to last another set. (Blue Nile, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250111
Frenchmen Art Bazaar: Market for handmade and artistic works doesn’t open until 6pm, showing that Frenchman Street doesn’t come alive until evenings. A little farther north than the jazz clubs, it’s not the recorded music that draws in visitors. Families with children noticeable in the district. (Frenchmen Art Bazaar, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250111
Hunters Field: Walked northeast under I-10 overhead freeway for some blocks to track down a traditional parade in Treme, with tractors pulling floats up front, and a brass band following with the second line of pedestrians joining the festivities. We could see the flashing lights of police escorts ahead of slow-moving vehicles from blocks away, directing traffic away from the mess. Event had started late due to the rain, we stood at intersection maybe 2 hours along the route, with another hour to continue. (Hunters Field, North Claiborne Avenue at St. Bernard Avenue, Treme, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250112
Hunters Field: Had found the listing for a second line parade with Dumaine Street Ladies Auxiliary, and so expected a brass band. The revelling pedestrians joined as dancers swamped the crowd, so we could barely hear the musicians, let alone identify them. After seeing the tubas pass, the police cars closed off the end of the procession. (Hunters Field, North Claiborne Avenue at St. Bernard Avenue, Treme, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250112
The Maison: Late afternoon on Frenchmen Street, discovered the Cigar Box Serenaders playing interesting tunes, so we stopped in for dinner. Musical instruments are all homemade from upcycled materials, including a guitar with neck added to a cigar box, electric bass made of a dresser drawer, and drums including the floor bass with a turned over plastic garbage can. Repertoire is wide-ranging, including a surf rock and Scott Joplin. (The Maison, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250112
Cafe Negril: Expected Tri-Fi to be a piano-drums-bass, arrived to hear organ-drums-guitar-saxophone. Keyboardist was dancing on foot pedals for low notes, to free up left hand. Live performances are different from recordings, audiences sometimes like improvisation on top of familiar tunes. (Cafe Negril, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250112
Contemporary Arts Center, New Orleans: Subtle hiss suggesting a methane gas leak #HannahChalew (2024) Orphan Well Gamma Garden investigates impact of oil and gas pipelines. Salvaged wellhead repurposed as nourishing fountain for living plants. Plasticane mixes shredded reclaimed plastic with waste sugarcane fibrous waste. (Contemporary Arts Center, Camp Street, New Orleans) 20250113
Contemporary Arts Center, New Orleans: Room-filling #JeannetteEhlers 2020/2024 We’re Magic, We’re Real #2 rotating ball with ominous sounds. Planet of synthetic afro hair examines identity in African diaspora. Makeshift universe of reflective emergency blankets. (Contemporary Arts Center, Camp Street, New Orleans) 20250113
The Spotted Cat: Caught last set of a 4-hour afternoon slot by #ChrisChristy Band, playing original contemporary tunes in a town with many traditional sounds. Seating in small venue was full on a Tuesday afternoon. Might have arrived earlier, but another unsuccessful wait for an waterfront streetcar delayed starting another trek across the French Quarter. (The Spotted Cat Music Club, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 202141116
Bird Island Preserve, Audubon Park: Thousands of Black Bellied Whistling Ducks exhibited sociable behaviour with noisy wheezy sounds. The mostly non-migratory species unusually nests in trees, and enjoys Louisiana weather. We only strolled on the east side of the large park, on the way to Tulane University. (Bird Island Preserve, Audubon Park, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250115
Jon Cleary | When You Get Back | Chickee Wah Wah | 2025-01-15:: Coming off a jazz cruise, Jon Cleary filled the room with his solo piano and singing. New Orleans isn’t just about jazz, as we’ve been exploring musicians playing funk. Appreciative audience filled room on a rainy Wednesday night, as we took a short streetcar and bus ride out of the more popular Bourbon Street district. (Chickee Wah Wah, Canal Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250115
St Roch Cemetery No. 1 ~ Campo Santo: Further northeast than most tourists would go, this Catholic cemetery and chapel was built on a 1874 promise by a priest if the congregation was spared the yellow feature outbreak. Vaults positioned above ground, due to the high water table in the region. Visitation of the chapel is available on the first Friday of the month. (St Roch Cemetery No. 1 ~ Campo Santo, St. Roch Avenue, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250116
St Roch Market: Originally built in 1838 as a city market in the New Marigny neighbourhood, and renovated in 1875 and 1950s, the building became a supermarket and then Chinese restaurant. Damaged with Hurricane Katrina and the levee failures in 2005, the mayor campaigned for state and federal funding to restore the building. In 2014, the city leased the building to a private business modernizing into a multi-tenant food hall. (St Roch Market, South Claude Avenue, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250116
30°/-90°: Soul-jazz trio with #Organami with #AaronWalker drums, #MattGalloway guitar, #TrisDuncan organ. Wearing a Maple Leafs shirt and originating from Toronto, the drummer discovered two couples in audience also visiting from up north. This was the fourth music club on Frenchman Street that we visited, arriving in time to hear two full sets. (30°/-90°, 520 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250116
St. Peters Street: Walking back from Frenchman Street through Jackson Square, heard brass band and saw crowd walking north. Caught up to find wedding couple dancing with the Jaywalkers Second Line Band, celebrating with music. Unclear how many people were part of the procession, and how many chose to follow the group to Pat O’Brien’s pub. (St. Peter Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250116
Historic New Orleans Collection: Aeolian electric player pipe organ was installed in the 1920s by tobacco magnate William Ratcliffe for home entertainment. Restored and updated with MIDI controller by the Holtkamp Organ Company. Guests would ride the electric elevator to the third floor to hear the pipes in the walls of in this Seignouret-Brulatour Building. (Historic New Orleans Collection – Seignouret-Brulatour building, 520 Royal Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250117
Tranzac Club: Relaxed gig with #ColletteSavard lead vocal without instruments, as broken arm not full recovered. #KevinBarrett lead guitar, #RebeccaCampbell guitar, #MeganWorthy keyboards, #JohnSwitzer bass. #MartinWorthy drums. Easy groove on Copper Moon, with space for guitar solo. Southern Cross space is barely larger than a livingroom, friendly audience would seem to include a lot or regulars. (Tranzac Club, Brunswick Avenue, Toronto, Ontario) 20241214
Perfect Chinese Restaurant: Simultaneous pull of party crackers at extended family lunch, with table for the youngers, and table for the elders. Wide variety of Chinese dishes to meet the spending minimum for private room, so many leftovers sent home afterwards. Karaoke bridging from boomers to Gen Z requires selective musical choices. (Perfect Chinese Restaurant, Sheppard Avenue East, Scarborough, Ontario) 20241214
Jefferson Richmond Hill: Deep fog on suburban street just south of Oak Ridges Morraine. Extra caution required on the drive 40km north of downtown Toronto. Saturday lunch with cousins, including out-of-town family members. (Jefferson Richmond Hill, Ontario) 20241228<
Taughannock Falls Overlook: The path at the foot of Taughannock Falls looked inviting, but we hadn’t planned excursion time. Up from Route 96 on west side of Cayuga Lake, the tallest single-drop waterfall east of the Rocky Mountains is nestled in the Finger Lakes. Temperatures have fallen, so the trees with fall colors are dropping their leaves. (Taughannock Falls Overlook, Taughannock Park Road, Trumansburg, NY) 20241103
Ithaca Farmers Market: Long pavilion allows vendors to back in the their stalls, making unloading and loading off merchandise easier. Sunday morning seems to be popular with community shopping for items produced less than 30 miles from Ithaca. North end of pavilion has more vendors and artists, south end has food stalls offering service on reusable plates. (Ithaca Farmers Market, Third Street, Ithaca, NY) 20241103
Ithaca Falls: Sunday afternoon fisherman spinning flies into the brook by the gorge, dressed in hip waders. Easy walk on foot trail on east bank, seems popular amongst couples. Ruins of mills from the 1800s are visible on the way from the parking lot. (Ithaca Falls, Ithaca, NY) 20241103
Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art: Arranged in a semi-circle, Nigerian American artist and poet Precious Okoyomon (2024) The Self Grows Forward Out of Its Reference shows influences crossing West Africa, Europe and Japan. Artist was appointed as first visiting artist in 2022, engaging in research with faculty and students. Exhibition is part of Migrations Global Grand Challenge program at Cornell University. (Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art, Central Avenue, Cornell University, Ithaca, New York) 20241103
Evergreen Brick Works: Third of three parts of Space for Grief art installation, revised for fall 2024 showing at city’s flagship environmental park. Paper birds suspended from ceiling slowly drift, with projected movies and ambient music. Dark space with benches invites visitors to sit and reflect on losses that might have consumed them, or deterred moving on. (Evergreen Brick Works, Bayview Avenue, Toronto, Ontario) 20241111
The Auto BLDG: Carved wood and textile installation Cristina Flores Pescoran (2023-2024) Caressing the Heart of the Bone at #TorontoBiennial represents parts of the artists body, including legs, breasts, arms and head. Self-portrait with personal experience of cancer treatment and recovery. Artwork suspended in a corner of the 9th floor, between mushroom columns of concrete. (The Auto BLDG, Sterling Road, Toronto, Ontario) 20241115
Rogers Centre: Before 4 pm, three hours before Taylor Swift concert begins, crowds are channelled along barricades and streets are blocked by police cars. Lots of girls and women dressed for the occasion, stopping to take selfies. Biked around the building from south around to north, hadn’t appreciated lineups to multiple gates on the back side. (Rogers Centre, Bremner Boulevard, Toronto. Ontario) 20241116
Power Plant Gallery: In darkened room, Charles Campbell (2024) How Many Colours Has The Sea interprets the journey of enslaved Africans crossing the Atlantic. On south and west walls, four of the 9 breath portraits celebrate the divine spirits of the sea. Overhead aluminum sculpture on steel cables are inspired by the bathymetric data of submerged terrain where tectonic plates converge. (Power Plant Contemporary Art Gallery, Queens Quay West, Harbourfront, Toronto, Ontario) 20241124
Lake Como:: With 5:02pm southbound departure from Lugano, opted for first class tickets to escape the standing-room-only ride we encountered in the second class northbound trip 6 days earlier. First class is only one half of the railcar, so we could see standees packed in through the door behind us. Arrival in Milan delayed before Como, we were messaging apartment agent for assisted check-in. (Lake Como, Italy) 20241004
Fondazione Prada Milano: Panoramic view north from eighth floor of the Torre building, with a series of glass cases including Damian Hirst (1997) Tears for Everybody Looking at You. An umbrella protects the decoy ducks from a continual rainshower, yet waterfowl need pools of water to float and swim. The other glass cases behind with collections of dead flies are less humourous. (Fondazione Prada, Largo Isarco, Milan, Italy) 20241005
Fondazione Prada Milano: On ninth floor of Torre building, visitors first trace a blind handrail through Carsten Holler (2000) Gantenbein Corridor (i.e. goose leg maze) completely dark passageway, to emerge out into brightness of (2000) Upside Down Mushroom Room. Lights from floor and spinning for ceiling produce a hallucination enjoyed by children. Adults attempt to capture the experience on their smartphones. (Fondazione Prada, Largo Isarco, Milan, Italy) 20241005
Pirelli HangarBicocca:: A video projector at each end of 24 silk panels #SaodatIsmailova (2024) As We Fade, part of the exhibition A Seed Under Our Tongue. One of twelve installations in the dark Shed, the Uzbehki video artist transmits landscapes and moving artifacts that dissolve into shades of colour less than halfway through the fabric series. Pictures in motion are reduced in translucence as light is dematerialized. (Pirelli HangarBicocca, Via Chiese, Milan, Italy) 20241006
Pirelli HangarBicocca: The first of five large painting added Anselm Kiefer (2009) Jaipur is at the north end of the Navette exhibition space. Of the Seven Heavenly Palaces first exhibited in 2004, the closest is (2004) Sefiroth, associated with ten different channels through which the one God reveals His will, in the later Jewish literature. The original temporary installation has become permanent, probably because moving and storing the work would destroy it. (Pirelli HangarBicocca, Via Chiese, Milan, Italy) 20241006
Sforzesco Castle: Originally built as Castello di Porta Giova for Visconti dukes circa 1370, the structure was enlarged in 1450 by Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan. Repurposed many time over centuries, the city reconstructured the fortress as museums after WWII. Espoused as open until 7:30pm, we arrived after 5:00pm when ticket offices were closed. Sforzesco Castle, Piazza Castello, Milan, Italy) 20241006
Swiss Alps: Air Baltic 1617 flight from Milan to Zürich, flight time less than an hour over the Alps. Departure was cloudy, snow was evident in the southern facing mountain slopes. As we travelled north, the snow cover on peaks appeared less and less, exposing either rocks or trees. (LX1617, Alps, Switzerland) 20241007
15 Merchants Wharf: Ecological flipbook in #NuitBlanche Extended with #IsaacKing (2024) Humans Build the Biggest Nests. Narrative thinking about entangled ecologies influenced by theorists and indigenous thinkers. Visitors were encouraged to run hands through the cards to trace the interactions between species. (15 Merchants Wharf, East Bayfront, Toronto, Ontario) 20241009
125 Queens Quay East:: Unfixed dyed sand in #NuitBlanche Extended with #ShannonGardenSmith (2024) Snail-work (For The Lake) showed carefully grains at outset. Visitors were invited to gently disrupt the patterns by walking through. This reminds individuals about the accumulated environmental, historical and economic impacts of the world’s most popular construction material. (125 Queens Quay East, East Bayfront, Toronto, Ontairo) 20241009
Toronto Biennial of Art: Hanging strips of fabric mimic bamboo forest in multimedia installation #KarenTam (2024) #ScentOfThunderbolts of stage with Cantonese opera for #TorontoBiennialOfArt. Visitors are invited to walk around backstage, and view vintage photos of last century shows. A diasporic visual and sonic memory more for my father’s generation than me. (Toronto Biennial of Art, Lisgar Street, Toronto, Ontario) 20241019
Leslie Lookout Park: Exceptionally warm day draws out bicyclists and sunbathers, towards beach facing west into ship channel running to the inner harbour. Lookout tower can be approached by stairs or slow ramp, with bike repair station its base. Architected shape of lookout respects the cylindrical tower of the St. Mary’s Cement factory to the north. (Leslie Lookout Park, Leslie Street, Toronto, Ontario) 20241020
Aga Khan Museum: Immersive looped video in dark corner, Tannis Nielsen (2020) mazinibii’igan/ a creation as a reimagining of residual radiation from the Big Bang. Dressing in monochrome challenges discerning figures moving in the space. Short line up for visitors to become part of the art installation. (Aga Khan Museum, Wynford Drive, Don Mills, Ontario) 20241023
Gerrard-Ashdale: Diwala Mela lights up the darkness with sparklers and dancing. Throbbing music attracts the crowd, and a dancer on stilts encourages joining in. Major street not closed off, neighborhood event in Little India. (Gerrard Street East at Ashdale Avenue, Toronto, Ontario) 20241026
Art Gallery of Ontario: Across four walls, Jinny Yu (2023) Cuboids + Colour, watercolors extended with gouache. Visual connection in series of three-dimensional shapes with six rectangular faces. Korean-born artists trained in Canada, now a professor in Ottawa. (Art Gallery of Ontario, Dundas Street West, Toronto, Ontario) 20241030
Market Street:: On west side of St. Lawrence Market, @OldTownToronto lunchtime jazz duo @AndrewMarzotto guitar + @AndrewMcAnsh trumpet in loose gig. Shoppers walking by, trucks with backup alerts, and car noises on The Esplanade behind. The musicians weren’t responsive to my request for songs from this century, the old standards are more familiar. (Market Street, Toronto, Ontario) 20240903
Market Street:: Languid noontime pace with @gisun_music “Never Met” as summer weather returned after a cold spell. Still tourist buses at top of street for St. Lawrence Market @OldTownToronto , with shoppers enjoying lunch in the sun. Musical intermission as a short break on a busy day, biking cross town. (Market Street, Toronto, Ontario) 20240911
The Gooderham:: Birthday celebration dancing with family and friends. We didn’t know what to expect, the group retreated to privacy when the choreographer arrived. Performance ended with vegan cake. (The Gooderham, Cherry Street, Distillery District, Toronto, Ontario) 20240914
The Gooderham:: Winding down the evening with the lights down, just dancing for selves, not for performance. Birthday celebration did offer dinner and cake, yet setup for deejay with hiphop and breaking is unusual for most families. Met again some friends that we say at the big party before the move to NYC, a few years back. (The Gooderham, Cheery Street, Distillery District, Toronto, Ontario) 20240914
Market Street:: Lunchtime performance @oldtowntoronto @EmilyNSchultz singing The Sun, a tune inspired by the relationship with her sister. Singer-songwriter with inventive technique on hollow body electric guitar, plus added complexity with loop pedal. Monday seems to have more traffic on the street behind, with tourists still visiting the neighbourhood on a warm fall day. (Market Street, Toronto, Ontario) 20240917
Varley Art Gallery: Hanging in a circle, Meera Sethi (2018-2023) Outerwhere is 12 used coats with mixed media. The winter coat is essential for Northern climates, for both physical and metaphorical protection. Articles sewn in by hand include toys, flowers, plastics, fibre crafts. (Varley Art Gallery, Main Street, Unionville, Ontario) 20240922
Castello di Riomaggiore: Cloudy morning view east of vineyards cultivated since the 13th century. Castle was built in 1260, served as a cemetery in three 19th century. Slow ascent via steep roads and narrow pedestrian steps. Construction noise hammering somewhere in the village resounds everywhere. (Castello di Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, Italy) 20240927
Riomaggiore Marina: In the valley of Rivus Maior, the river flowing into the sea was buried under the street. The original founders of the village built 3 to 4 storey houses against the cliffs. As the clouds gave ways to the sun, the wind brought waves to crash against the breakwater. (Riomaggiore Marina, Cinque Terre, Italy) 20240927
Mercato Orientale: First opened in 1899, the outdoor market on the east side of Genoa became covered. Sellers of fresh produce and local meats have stalls in the inner ring, with a semi-hidden outer ring of specialty products. Tastes of imported foods would seem to be against Italian tradition. (Mercato Orientale, Via XX Settembre, Genoa, Italy) 20240927
MOG Mercado Orientale Genoa: Modernization of the central core space in the larger product and meat market aims to attract trendy locals and foodie visitors. Acronym implying modernity reflects brightly-lit central area raised up a few steps from the traditional stalls of uncooked ingredients. At early dinnertime on a Thursday night, the restaurateurs were just opening up, and customers had not year arrived. (MOG Mercado Orientale Genoa, Via XX Settembre, Genoa, Italy). 20240927
Chiostro di Sant’Andrea: In the ruins of a monastery from the 12th century, the @BilbosaBand was doing a sound check 90 minutes before their live @teatrodelchiostro performance. Approaching the Porta Soprano walk, we heard drums and individual instruments in the 30-minutes setup. We were intrigued by the musicianship, but hanging out for an 8:30pm start wasn’t a good idea for Canadians trying to beat jet lag with early nights. (Chiostro di Sant’Andrea, St. Andrews Cloisters, Vico Dritto di Ponticello, Genoa Italy) 20240927
Dogali Funicular (Montegalletto Lift) from vertical to horizontal: Rode bus to upper station of the Dogali Funicular, the only lift in the world that switches from vertical to horizontal motion. Looking out the front door, counted about 20 florescent tubes on the way down, stopping with a pause to see motorized wheels on the track spinning. When the sister car arrived and started ascent, our car rolled south to the exit. (Dogali Funicular (Montegalletto Lift), Genoa, Italy) 20240928