Toronto, Ontario; New Orleans, Louisiana




Mr. Ed’s PoBoy Shop: Fun neighbourhood feel in the most casual branch of a well-known restaurant group known for its oysters. We declined to sit by the window with the wintry wind at the door, and bar stools are too spirited for us. Located on a quieter street in the French Quarter, tourists may not have found this place opened 3 months ago. (Mr. Ed’s PoBoy Shop, Iberville Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250110
Bourbon Street: Strolling through clubbing district on Friday 7:30pm, only a few bars are close enough to have loud music duelling loudly to attract customers. Foot traffic seemed light, maybe a combination of chilly temperatures, and the early hour. We started walking from Canal Street to the west, where memorials to the vehicle attack on crowds are still fresh, through to a dark Jackson Square. (Bourbon Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250110
Mahogany Jazz Hall: From the street outside the renowned jazz club, we caught a few minutes of the Delfeayo Marsalis Quintet near the end of the early evening set. In the first few hours after arriving in the city, we had opted to wander around Bourbon Street to get a feel or the district. The apartment building where we are staying is literally wrapped around this music venue. (Mahogany Jazz Hall, Chartres Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250110


Jackson Square: Cold shade on St. Peter St., but warming sun down Chartres Street, as Glory Land Brass Band winds down a set facing The Cabildo. Music was reflected all the way over to Decatur Street towards the Waterfront. This style of jazz seems better heard outdoors, from a tradition before electronic amplification was invented. (Jackson Square, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250111
Blue Nile: Doors to the club were open to the cold, with driving groove inviting visitors to listen to the George Brown Band. The trombonist was leading the bassist, pianist and drummer, with the trumpeter stepping in on this tune. All of the seats in the venue were already taken, my legs were too tired to last another set. (Blue Nile, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250111
Frenchmen Art Bazaar: Market for handmade and artistic works doesn’t open until 6pm, showing that Frenchman Street doesn’t come alive until evenings. A little farther north than the jazz clubs, it’s not the recorded music that draws in visitors. Families with children noticeable in the district. (Frenchmen Art Bazaar, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250111



Hunters Field: Walked northeast under I-10 overhead freeway for some blocks to track down a traditional parade in Treme, with tractors pulling floats up front, and a brass band following with the second line of pedestrians joining the festivities. We could see the flashing lights of police escorts ahead of slow-moving vehicles from blocks away, directing traffic away from the mess. Event had started late due to the rain, we stood at intersection maybe 2 hours along the route, with another hour to continue. (Hunters Field, North Claiborne Avenue at St. Bernard Avenue, Treme, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250112

Hunters Field: Had found the listing for a second line parade with Dumaine Street Ladies Auxiliary, and so expected a brass band. The revelling pedestrians joined as dancers swamped the crowd, so we could barely hear the musicians, let alone identify them. After seeing the tubas pass, the police cars closed off the end of the procession. (Hunters Field, North Claiborne Avenue at St. Bernard Avenue, Treme, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250112
The Maison: Late afternoon on Frenchmen Street, discovered the Cigar Box Serenaders playing interesting tunes, so we stopped in for dinner. Musical instruments are all homemade from upcycled materials, including a guitar with neck added to a cigar box, electric bass made of a dresser drawer, and drums including the floor bass with a turned over plastic garbage can. Repertoire is wide-ranging, including a surf rock and Scott Joplin. (The Maison, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250112
Cafe Negril: Expected Tri-Fi to be a piano-drums-bass, arrived to hear organ-drums-guitar-saxophone. Keyboardist was dancing on foot pedals for low notes, to free up left hand. Live performances are different from recordings, audiences sometimes like improvisation on top of familiar tunes. (Cafe Negril, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250112

Contemporary Arts Center, New Orleans: Subtle hiss suggesting a methane gas leak #HannahChalew (2024) Orphan Well Gamma Garden investigates impact of oil and gas pipelines. Salvaged wellhead repurposed as nourishing fountain for living plants. Plasticane mixes shredded reclaimed plastic with waste sugarcane fibrous waste. (Contemporary Arts Center, Camp Street, New Orleans) 20250113
Contemporary Arts Center, New Orleans: Room-filling #JeannetteEhlers 2020/2024 We’re Magic, We’re Real #2 rotating ball with ominous sounds. Planet of synthetic afro hair examines identity in African diaspora. Makeshift universe of reflective emergency blankets. (Contemporary Arts Center, Camp Street, New Orleans) 20250113





The Spotted Cat: Caught last set of a 4-hour afternoon slot by #ChrisChristy Band, playing original contemporary tunes in a town with many traditional sounds. Seating in small venue was full on a Tuesday afternoon. Might have arrived earlier, but another unsuccessful wait for an waterfront streetcar delayed starting another trek across the French Quarter. (The Spotted Cat Music Club, Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 202141116
Bird Island Preserve, Audubon Park: Thousands of Black Bellied Whistling Ducks exhibited sociable behaviour with noisy wheezy sounds. The mostly non-migratory species unusually nests in trees, and enjoys Louisiana weather. We only strolled on the east side of the large park, on the way to Tulane University. (Bird Island Preserve, Audubon Park, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250115




Jon Cleary | When You Get Back | Chickee Wah Wah | 2025-01-15:: Coming off a jazz cruise, Jon Cleary filled the room with his solo piano and singing. New Orleans isn’t just about jazz, as we’ve been exploring musicians playing funk. Appreciative audience filled room on a rainy Wednesday night, as we took a short streetcar and bus ride out of the more popular Bourbon Street district. (Chickee Wah Wah, Canal Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250115

St Roch Cemetery No. 1 ~ Campo Santo: Further northeast than most tourists would go, this Catholic cemetery and chapel was built on a 1874 promise by a priest if the congregation was spared the yellow feature outbreak. Vaults positioned above ground, due to the high water table in the region. Visitation of the chapel is available on the first Friday of the month. (St Roch Cemetery No. 1 ~ Campo Santo, St. Roch Avenue, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250116
St Roch Market: Originally built in 1838 as a city market in the New Marigny neighbourhood, and renovated in 1875 and 1950s, the building became a supermarket and then Chinese restaurant. Damaged with Hurricane Katrina and the levee failures in 2005, the mayor campaigned for state and federal funding to restore the building. In 2014, the city leased the building to a private business modernizing into a multi-tenant food hall. (St Roch Market, South Claude Avenue, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250116
30°/-90°: Soul-jazz trio with #Organami with #AaronWalker drums, #MattGalloway guitar, #TrisDuncan organ. Wearing a Maple Leafs shirt and originating from Toronto, the drummer discovered two couples in audience also visiting from up north. This was the fourth music club on Frenchman Street that we visited, arriving in time to hear two full sets. (30°/-90°, 520 Frenchmen St, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250116
St. Peters Street: Walking back from Frenchman Street through Jackson Square, heard brass band and saw crowd walking north. Caught up to find wedding couple dancing with the Jaywalkers Second Line Band, celebrating with music. Unclear how many people were part of the procession, and how many chose to follow the group to Pat O’Brien’s pub. (St. Peter Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250116


Historic New Orleans Collection: Aeolian electric player pipe organ was installed in the 1920s by tobacco magnate William Ratcliffe for home entertainment. Restored and updated with MIDI controller by the Holtkamp Organ Company. Guests would ride the electric elevator to the third floor to hear the pipes in the walls of in this Seignouret-Brulatour Building. (Historic New Orleans Collection – Seignouret-Brulatour building, 520 Royal Street, New Orleans, Louisiana) 20250117





